Givenchy’s Wild Horses
It seems to be all about the bodyguard this season. At Dior the other
day, before the show started, three dudes parked themselves in front of
Robbie Myers, the editor-in-chief of Elle, and myself. When they
finally moved off, I knew how a bear must feel after a winter in her
cave. Ah, light!
Kanye West was shopping with his bodyguard the
other day at the Dries Van Noten store. I saw his man by the door when I
walked in and I heard Mr. West’s voice coming from the dressing rooms
in the rear. There was more bodyguard action last night at the Givenchy
show, with the arrival of Mr. West and Sean Combs, the original
rapper-fashion designer, who knows how to make a posse entrance. Alicia
Keys also attended the show, a white Givenchy blazer thrown over her
shoulders.
Speaking of blazers,
Riccardo Tisci’s fall collection is loaded with them. His general themes
were riding gear and the sexiness of Guy Bourdin’s 70s-era photography.
If that sounds like a big grab bag of stuff, it was. Mr. Tisci showed
lots of swanky black leather, in slim and flared shapes, and
color-blocked fur. Lacy camisoles were a soft spot. Riding boots came
with sheaths over the heels, creating a chimney-stack effect from floor
to knees. They looked boss. But tops were many of the jackets,
especially a group with a longer, squared-off back flap — you’ll have to
find them in the mix.
I’m still thinking about Phoebe Philo’s
Celine collection. It felt incomplete, or maybe it was just a taste of
things, and I thought the oversized fit seemed just a little off. Still,
she can make a cool statement. And she had several new pieces at her
preview, particularly the blousy tops in leather or wool, the big coats,
and the laundry-fresh amount of white she used.
Late last night,
after Givenchy, I hit the W party in honor of the photographers Mert
Alas and Marcus Piggott, and my friend Edward Enninful, who did amazing
work in the March issue. Lots of people were there, including Franca
Sozzani, Liya Kebede, Angela Missoni, Lily Donaldson, Antoine Arnault
and Natalia Vodianova, and Ronnie and Jonathan Newhouse.
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